pocket watch (or watch ) is a clock made to be carried in a pocket, not a watch, tied to the wrist.
They were the most common type of clock from their development in the 16th century until watches became popular after World War I where transitional designs, watch trenches, were used by the military. Pocket watches generally have a chain attached to allow them to be secured to a vest, collar, or belt loop, and to prevent them from being dropped. Watches are also mounted on short leather straps or fob, when long chains will be complicated or tend to capture objects. This fob can also provide a protective flap over their face and crystal. Women's watches are usually of this shape, with watches that are more decorative than protective. Chains are often decorated with silver or enamel pendants, often carrying the arms of several clubs or communities, which by association are also known as fob. Practical practical gadgets such as winding clock locks, vesta boxes, or cigar cutters also appear on watch chains, though usually in overly decorated styles. Also common are fasteners designed to be put through buttonholes and worn in a jacket or vest, these are often associated with and named after the conductor train.
The initial reference to the pocket watch was in a letter in November 1462 from Italian watchmaker Bartholomew Manfredi to Marchese at Mantova Federico Gonzaga, where he offered him a "pocket watch" better than the Duke of Modena. At the end of the 15th century, spring-driven hours appeared in Italy, and in Germany. Peter Henlein, the key connoisseur of Nuremberg, regularly made pocket watches in 1524. After that, pocket watchmakers spread throughout Europe as the 16th century took place. Early watches had only one watch, minute hands appeared at the end of the 17th century. The first American pocket watch with engine parts was made by Henry Pitkin with his brother in the 1830s.
Video Pocket watch
History
The first timepieces to be worn, made in the 16th century in Europe, is a transitional measure between clock and watch. These 'clocks' are tied to a garment or worn on a chain around the neck. They are brass tubes of diameter a few inches in diameter, engraved and ornamented. They only have one watch. His face is not covered with glass, but usually has a hinged brass cover, often stuck with a grille so the time can be read without opening. The movement is made of iron or steel and is held together with pointed pins and slices, until the screws start to be used after 1550. Many movements include striking mechanisms or alarms. The shape then evolved into a round shape; this is then called Nuremberg egg . Still at the end of the century there is a tendency for regular-shaped watches, and clocks shaped like books, animals, fruits, stars, flowers, insects, crosses, and even skulls (head clocks of death) are made.
The style changed in the 17th century and men began wearing watches in pockets, not as pendants (women's watches remained pendants until the 20th century). This was said to have occurred in 1675 when Charles II of England introduced the vest. To fit the pockets, the shape evolves into a typical, round and flat pocket shape with no sharp edges. Glass used to cover the face began around 1610. Fobs Watch began to be used, a name derived from the German word fuppe , a small pocket. The watch is twisted and also arranged by opening the back and attaching the key to a square arbor, and rotating it.
Until the second half of the 18th century, watches were a luxury; as an indication of how high they are, 18th century English newspapers often include ads offering between one and five guineas only for information that might lead to the recovery of stolen watches. However, by the end of the 18th century, watches (though mostly handmade) became more common; cheap watches specially made for sale to sailors, with rough and colorful paintings of maritime scenes on the plates.
Until the 1720s, almost all watch movements were based on threshold runs, which had been developed for the great public clocks of the 14th century. This type of escape involves high-level friction and does not include any type of jewelry to protect contact surfaces from wear and tear. As a result, watches are barely able to achieve high standards of accuracy. (The surviving examples mostly run very quickly, often getting an hour a day or more.) The first widely used improvements are the cylinder escape, developed by AbbÃÆ'Â © de Hautefeuille in the early 18th century and applied by the English maker , George Graham. Then, towards the end of the 18th century, the release of the lever (invented by Thomas Mudge in 1755) was put into limited production by several makers including Josiah Emery (London-based Swiss) and Abraham-Louis Breguet. With this, the domestic clock can save time in one minute a day. The watch lever became common after about 1820, and this type is still used in most of the current mechanical watches.
In 1857, American Watch Company in Waltham, Massachusetts introduced Waltham Model 57, the first to use the interchangeable parts. This cuts the cost of manufacture and repair. Most pocket watch models 57 are in silver coins ("one nine smooth"), a 90% pure silver alloy commonly used in US dollars, slightly less pure than British sterling silver (92.5%), both of which avoid the purity higher. other silver types to make circulating coins and other utilitarian silver objects last longer with heavy usage.
Watch making becomes leaner; The Japy Schaffhausen family, Switzerland, took the lead in this, and soon after that the newly developed American watch industry developed many new machines, so that in 1865 American Watch Company (later known as Waltham) could produce more than 50,000 trustworthy watches every year. This development pushed Switzerland out of their dominant position at the cheaper end of the market, forcing them to improve the quality of their products and make themselves leaders in precision and accuracy.
Maps Pocket watch
Use in railroading in the United States
The emergence of trains during the last half of the 19th century led to the widespread use of pocket watches. A famous train crash on Lake Shore and the Michigan Southern Railway in Kipton, Ohio on April 19, 1891 happened because one of the engineer's watches had stopped for four minutes. Rail officials commissioned Webb C. Ball as their Chief Inspector of Time, to set precision watch standards and watch check systems for the Railroad chronometer. This led to adoption in 1893 from the rigorous standards for pocket watches used in railroading. These railroad class watches, when they become known everyday languages, must meet the General Railway Directive Standards adopted in 1893 by almost all railroad tracks. These standards are read, in part:
... open faced, size 16 or 18, has at least 17 gems, adjusted to at least five positions, keeps the time accurately in 30 seconds a week, adjusted to a temperature of 34 Â ° F (1 Â ° C) to 100 Â ° F ( 38 Â ° C), has a double roller, steel loose wheel, regulator lever, regulator, winding bar at 12 o'clock, and has a thick black Arabic number on a white dial, with black hands.
Type of pocket watch
There are two main styles of pocket watches, pocket watches and pocket watches open.
Open watch
An open-faced, or LÃÆ'Â © pine, watch, is one that does not have a metal cover to protect the crystal. It's typical for open-faced watches to have a pendant located at 12:00 and a second sub-dial located at 6:00. Sometimes, watch movements intended for hunting cases (with winding stems at 3:00 and sub seconds at 6:00) will have an open-faced case. Such watches are known as "sidewinders." Alternatively, the movement of such a watch can be supplemented by a so-called conversion button, which moves the winding stem to 12:00 and sub-seconds dial to 3:00. After 1908, approved watches for rail services must be coated in open-faced cases with winding stems at 12:00.
Hunter's watch
A case-hunter pocket watch is a case with a semi-hinged semi-circular metal cover or cover, which covers the top of the watch and crystal, protecting them from dust, scratches and damage or other debris. The name comes from England where "fox hunting men find it convenient to be able to open their clocks and read the time with one hand, while in control of the 'hunter' (horse) on the other side". It is also known as "savonnette", after the French word for soap (savon) because of its resemblance to bar soap round.
The majority of antique and antique hunter watches have hinge caps on 9 o'clock positions and stems, crowns and bow watches at 3 o'clock position. Modern hunter pocket watches usually have a hinge to cover at 6 o'clock positions and rods, crowns and arcs at clock positions 12, as with face watches open. In both watchbox styles, sub-second calls are always at 6 o'clock in the morning. A hunting pocket watch with a spring ring chain is pictured at the top of this page.
The intermediate type, known as demi-hunter (or half hunter), is a case-style in which the outer lid has a glass panel or a hole in the middle that gives a hand view. The clock is marked, often blue, on its own outer cap; so with this kind of case people can know the time without opening the lid.
Type of watch motion
Key-lock movement, set-button
The first pocket watch, since their creation in the 16th century, until the third quarter of the 19th century, has a key-wind and key-set movement. Lock clock is required to rotate the clock and set the time. This is usually done by opening the caseback and putting the key above the indentations (mounted on the winding wheel of the clock, to wrap the prime impulse) or by putting the key into the arbor arrangement, which is connected to the minute and turns the hand. Some watches in this period have a background in front of the clock, so removing the crystal and frame is needed to set the time. Watch key is the origin of class keys, general equipment for American high school and university graduation.
Many watch key movements utilize the fuse, to improve isochronism. Fusee is a special cone-shaped pulley that is fastened by a fine chain to the main barrel. When the spring is fully wound (and the highest torque), the full length of the chain is wrapped around the fuse and the power of the main impulse is given to the smallest diameter of the fusee cone. As the spring breaks down and the torque decreases, the winding chain returns to the main barrel and pulls on the larger diameter part of the axis. This gives a much more uniform torque on the clock carriage, and thus produces a more consistent equilibrium amplitude and better isochronism. A fuse is a practical necessity in a wristwatch using a breakout threshold, and can also provide considerable benefits with lever overruns and other high-precision types of expeditions (Kronium Hamiltons WWII Model 21 era uses a fuse combined with detent breakout).
Keywind watches are also often seen with conventional barrels and other types of push barrels, especially in American watches.
Stem-wind, set-parent movement
Invented by Adrien Philippe in 1842 and commercialized by Patek Philippe & amp; Co in the 1850s, the stem-wind movement, stem-set eliminates the clock locks that are a necessity for the operation of pocket watches until then. The first wind-and-row pocket-set pocket was sold during the Great Exhibition in London in 1851 and the first owner of this new wristwatch was Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Stem-wind, stem-set movement is the most common type of watch found in modern vintage watches.
The mainstream transition to the use of stem-wind, the set set of mains occurs around the same time as the end of manufacture and the use of the fusee clock. Fusee chain-driven timing is replaced by a major boost of better-quality spring steel (commonly known as "going barrel") that allows more power to escape mechanisms. However the reader of this article should not be misled to think that the functions of winding and setting are directly related to the balance wheel and spring balance. The balance wheel and balance spring provide a separate function: to set the time (or escape) of movement.
Stem-wind movement, lever-set
Mandatory for all railway watches after approximately 1908, this type of pocket watch is set by opening the crystal and frame and pulling out the lever-lever (most hunter-cases have levers accessible without releasing the crystal or frame), which is generally found in either 10 or 2 o'clock positions on open-faced watches, and at 5:00 on the hour of the hunting casing. After the lever is pulled out, the knob can be rotated to set the time. The lever is then pushed back and the crystal and the bezel are closed on top of the dial again. Timing methods on pocket watches are preferred by the American and Canadian railways, since setting the watch lever makes unintentional timing changes impossible. After 1908, lever arrangements are generally required for new watches entering service on the American rail line.
Stem-wind, pin-set movement
Just like a lever-lever movement, this pocket watch has a pin or small button next to the clock shaft that must be pressed before turning the crown to set the time and unpin the pin when the exact time has been set. This watch style is sometimes referred to as a "nail", because the set button should be pressed using a finger.
Gems Movement
- For more information see mechanical watch
Watches of any quality will be decorated. Gems in mechanical clocks are small pieces of hard minerals. Ruby and sapphire are most common. Diamonds, garnets, and glass are also visible. Beginning in the early 20th century, synthetic gems were almost universally used. Before that time, low-grade natural gems that did not fit as gems were used. In both cases, gems have almost no value for money.
The most common type of gem is hole jewelry. Hole gems are discs (usually in the form of flying saucers) that have carefully shaped and sized holes. The scout shaft is riding in this hole. Gems provide a very smooth and hard surface that is very wear resistant, and when lubricated properly, friction is very low. Thus, hole jewelry reduces friction and wear on the moving parts of the watch.
Other basic gem types are jewelry stamp, jewelry roller, and gem palette.
The cap jewelry is always paired with hole gems, and always with a conical shaft. The cap jewels are so called because they "cap" the hole jewelry and control the axial movement of the arbor, preventing the shaft shoulder that contacts the hole gem. For properly designed hole and cap systems, the pivot stake holds on the jewel cap as a pin point on a thin film of oil. Thus, hole and hat gems offer lower friction and better performance in different positions than just hole gems.
The jewel roller, also called impulse jewel or simply impulse pin, is a thin stem of ruby ​​â € <â € The pallet jewelry is on the pallet fork and interacts with the runaway wheel. They are surfaces that, 5 times per second on a typical escape, lock the carriage gear out of the watch and then transfer the power to the balance wheel. A gem watch with a lever reducer must contain at least 7 gems. Seven gems are; 2 diamond pits and 2 cap jewelry for the axle staff wheel (arbor), 1 impulse gem (roller), and 2 pallet gems. Watches with higher gems add gems to other pivots, starting with a palette fork, then runaway wheel, fourth wheel, third wheel, and finally the middle wheel. Jewelery like this to the third wheel adds eight gems, giving 15 gems in total. The diamond to the middle wheel adds two more giving a total of 17 gems. Thus, 17 o'clock gems are considered entirely gems. However, with American makers, it is common in low-end movements to gems to the third wheel just above the hour plate (which is visible). It gives a total of 11 gems, but looks identical to 15 hours of gems except the dial is removed. Because watches with 15 gems and less often are not marked as the number of gems, very caution should be made when buying movements that seem to be 15 gems. An additional jewelry outside of 17 is used to add a cap jewel, or to gems of barrels per main watch. Watches with 19 gems, especially those made by Elgin and Waltham, will often have a jar of gemstones. Or a 19 hour gem will have extra cap jewelry on the escape wheel. 21 gem watches generally have stamped jewelry on pallet forks and loose wheels. 23 gem watch will have a gem barrel and a fully enclosed runaway. The gem timing accuracy value above 17 for time motion alone is often debated. Complex movements will often have additional gems that serve useful purposes. The larger number of gems is often associated with better quality watch movements. While it is true that expensive movements often have a higher number of gems, the gem itself is not the reason for this. The gem itself basically has no value for money, and beyond 17 offers a negligible improvement in timeliness and in the life of the movement. Most of the more expensive hourly costs are associated with better finishing quality and, more importantly, with greater amount of adjustments. 
Adjusted movement
Pocket watch movements are sometimes engraved with the word "Tailored", or "Adjusted to position n". This means that the clock has been set to keep time in various positions and conditions. There are eight possible adjustments:
- Dial up.
- Play it down.
- Prepared.
- Pull down.
- Pendant remaining.
- Right.
- Temperature (from 34-100 degrees Fahrenheit).
- Isochronism (the ability of a watch to keep time, irrespective of the level of tension driving it).
Position adjustment is achieved by careful poising (ensuring even weight distribution) of the hair-balancing system as well as careful control of the shape and polish on the pivot balance. All of this achieves equalization of the effects of gravity on the clock in various positions. Position adjustment is achieved through careful adjustment of each factor, provided by repetitive testing of the time machine. So, adjusting the clock for the position takes a lot of working hours, increasing the cost of the clock. Middle-class watches are generally adjusted with 3 positions (dial up, dial down, pendant up) while high quality watches are generally adjusted to 5 positions (dial up, dial down, stem up, left rod, right rod) or even all 6 positions. The rail hour is required, after 1908, to be adjusted to 5 positions. 3 positions are common requirements before that time.
Early watches use a solid steel balance. As the temperature increases, the solid balance grows larger, changing the moment of inertia and changing the time of the watch. In addition, the hair springs will lengthen, lowering the spring constant. This problem was initially resolved through the use of a compensation balance. Compensation compensation consists of a steel ring flanked to a brass ring. The rings are then divided into two places. The balance will, at least theoretically, actually lower the size by heating to compensate for the elongation of the hair springs. By carefully adjusting the placement of the balance screw (brass or gold screw placed on the balance edge), the clock can be adjusted to keep the same time at hot temperature (100 ° F) and cold (32 °). Unfortunately, the adjusted watch will run slowly at the temperature between the two. The problem is really solved through the use of special alloys for balance and spring that are essentially immune to thermal expansion. Such alloys are used in 992E and 992B Hamilton.
Isochronism is sometimes enhanced through the use of stopworks, systems designed to allow only the primary impetus to operate within its (most consistent) range. The most common method for achieving isochronism is through the use of Breguet overcoils. which places the part of the outer rotation of the hair springs in a different plane than the rest of the spring. This allows the hair springs to "breathe" more evenly and symmetrically. Two types of overcoils are found - gradual overcoil and Z-Bend. Gradual overcoil is obtained by forcing two coils gradually into the hair springs, forming up to the second plane over half the circumference; and Z-bend do this by setting two complementary angles of 45 degrees, reaching a rise to the second plane in about three parts of the spring height. The second method is done for aesthetic reasons and much more difficult to do. Due to the difficulty in shaping overcoils, modern watches often use a slightly less effective "dogleg", which uses a series of sharp turns (in plane) to place part of the outer coil of the remaining spring path.
Decrease in popularity
Pocket watches are not common in modern times, have been replaced by watches. Until the beginning of the 20th century, pocket watches were very dominant and watches were considered feminine and unmanly. In men's fashion, pocket watches were replaced by watches around the time of World War I, when officers on the ground began to realize that wrist watches worn at the wrist were more accessible than those kept in the pocket. The transition design watches, incorporating features of pocket watches and modern watches, are called watch trenches or "bracelets". However, pocket watches continue to be used extensively on railroad lines even as their popularity declines elsewhere.
The use of pocket watches in a professional environment reached its final destination around 1943. The Royal Navy from the British military distributed to their sailors the Waltham pocket watch, which is 9 gem movements, with black buttons, and numbers coated with radium for visibility in the dark, to anticipate the D-Day invasion. The same Waltham was ordered by the Canadian military as well. Hanhart is a brand used by Germany, although German captain U-Boat (and his fellow allies) are more likely to use a stopwatch to set the torpedo run time.
For several years in the late 1970s and 1980s three-piece clothing for men returned to fashion, and this caused a small awakening in pocket watch, as some men actually used a pocket vest for its original purpose. Since then, some watch companies continue to make pocket watches. Since vests have long since ceased to be fashion (in the US) as part of formal business attire, the only location available to carry watches is in a pants pocket. The emergence of more phones and other gadgets worn at the waist has reduced the appeal of carrying additional items in the same location, especially since such pocket gadgets typically have their own timing functions.
In some countries, gold-plated pocket watch gifts are traditionally given to employees after they retire.
Pocket watches have been popular again because of the steampunk, subculture movement that embraces the art and fashion of the Victorian era, where pocket watches are almost everywhere.
The most complicated pocket watch
- The Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260 (2015) - 57 complications
- Patek Philippe Caliber 89 (1989) - 33 complications
- Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication (1933) - 24 complications
See also
- List of watch manufacturers
References
Bibliography
Military, Willis I (1945), Time and Timers , New York: MacMillan, ISBN 0-7808-0008 - 7 .External links
- "Perfect Watch", Popular Mechanics , December 1931 Ã, . Illustration of how a regular mechanical pocket watch works.
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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